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Red sauce : how Italian food became American
2022
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Author Notes
Ian MacAllen is a writer and book critic. He has written reviews and interviews for the Chicago Review of Books, Southern Review of Books, The Rumpus, Tampset, Electric Literature, and Fiction Advocate, with other nonfiction in The Billfold, Thought Catalog, and io9. He is descended from a line of Sicilian Strega. He lives in Brooklyn with his wife and son.
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MacAllen contends that Italian-American food, once spurned as a garlic-ridden, irredeemably ethnic cuisine, has become so much a part of U.S. palates that it is now, quite simply, American cooking. The first Italian emigrants arrived from the Southern part of the peninsula, bringing with them a style of cooking born out of poverty and founded on pasta and tomato sauce, with meat and seafood being beyond their economic reach. They also brought a bread pie that kept its Italian name: pizza. After WWII, GIs returned to the U.S. with fond recollections of such Neapolitan favorites, and Italian-born chefs happily recreated them and more. Magazine articles and cookbooks spread recipes into American kitchens, and soon every home cook entertained with the new rage, lasagna. Authors like Marcella Hazan popularized the idea that Northern Italian cooking, with its polenta and risotto, was even more sophisticated and exciting, and Italian cooking rose to a new level. Sharing his vast knowledge of history, ingredients, and technique, MacAllen offers an in-depth history of the Italian contribution to America's culinary landscape.
Summary

Tells the story of Italian food arriving in the United States and how your favorite red sauce recipes evolved into American staples.

In Red Sauce , Ian MacAllentraces the evolution of traditional Italian-American cuisine, often referred to as "red sauce Italian," from its origins in Italy to its transformation in America into a new, distinct cuisine. It is a fascinating social and culinary history exploring the integration of red sauce food into mainstream America alongside the blending of Italian immigrant otherness into a national American identity. The story follows the small parlor restaurants immigrants launched from their homes to large, popular destinations, and eventually to commodified fast food and casual dining restaurants. Some dishes like fettuccine Alfredo and spaghetti alla Caruso owe their success to celebrities, and Italian-American cuisine generally has benefited from a rich history in popular culture.

Drawing on inspiration from Southern Italian cuisine, early Italian immigrants to America developed new recipes and modified old ones. Ethnic Italians invented dishes like lobster fra Diavolo, spaghetti and meatballs, and veal parmigiana, and popularized foods like pizza and baked lasagna that had once been seen as overly foreign. Eventually, the classic red-checkered-table-cloth Italian restaurant would be replaced by a new idea of what it means for food to be Italian, even as 'red sauce' became entrenched in American culture. This booklooks at how and why these foods became part of the national American diet, and focuses on the stories, myths, and facts behind classic (and some not so classic) dishes within Italian-American cuisine.

Table of Contents
Acknowledgmentsp. ix
Introductionp. 1
Chapter 1Salty Like the Seap. 3
Chapter 2The Great Arrivalp. 9
Chapter 3A Macaroni by Any Other Namep. 19
Chapter 4We Are What We Readp. 33
Chapter 5Red Sauce Fundamentalsp. 43
Chapter 6One Fruit to Rule Them Allp. 51
Chapter 7The Opening Actsp. 63
Chapter 8Meat and Tomatoesp. 75
Chapter 9Red Sauce Enters a Golden Agep. 83
Chapter 10The Other Red Saucep. 95
Chapter 11As American as Pizza Piep. 101
Chapter 12Curds and Wheyp. 113
Chapter 13One Lasagna, Many Lasagnep. 121
Chapter 14A Taste of Romep. 127
Chapter 15The Last Red Saucep. 141
Chapter 16The Fall of Romep. 151
Chapter 17The Search for Authenticityp. 157
Chapter 18The Red Sauce Renaissance: An Epiloguep. 163
Appendix: Historic Recipesp. 165
Notesp. 173
Bibliographyp. 201
Indexp. 217
About the Authorp. 231
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