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MacAllen contends that Italian-American food, once spurned as a garlic-ridden, irredeemably ethnic cuisine, has become so much a part of U.S. palates that it is now, quite simply, American cooking. The first Italian emigrants arrived from the Southern part of the peninsula, bringing with them a style of cooking born out of poverty and founded on pasta and tomato sauce, with meat and seafood being beyond their economic reach. They also brought a bread pie that kept its Italian name: pizza. After WWII, GIs returned to the U.S. with fond recollections of such Neapolitan favorites, and Italian-born chefs happily recreated them and more. Magazine articles and cookbooks spread recipes into American kitchens, and soon every home cook entertained with the new rage, lasagna. Authors like Marcella Hazan popularized the idea that Northern Italian cooking, with its polenta and risotto, was even more sophisticated and exciting, and Italian cooking rose to a new level. Sharing his vast knowledge of history, ingredients, and technique, MacAllen offers an in-depth history of the Italian contribution to America's culinary landscape. |